Food inflation is driving us crazy
In 2011, we have already seen the highest food inflation in years. The worldwide “Great Recession” has caused food to stay low until this year when prices escalated in the first quarter at a disturbing rate. The second quarter inflation on food slowed dramatically but I believe that is just a temporary situation.
Our Government has been printing an awful amount of money throughout this recession. We have been spending much more than we take in from taxes and that can only go on for so long until the markets put us into reality. Sadly, that process has begun as the USA lost its AAA financial rating and the dollar is losing its value at an alarming rate.
The weak dollar will allow foreign countries to buy our production of food products more affordably which will increase demand and lower supply causing inevitable price raises. This will affect our most prized food products the most. I had a good example of this occur as I write this. Sable, also known as “Smoked Black Cod,” is an item prized by our friends in Japan. This wild fish is caught in the cold Alaskan waters and is a key item in our Delis. Our delis prepare smoked fish trays for the Jewish holiday,Yom Kippur. Last year, prior to the holiday, Sable was $18.00 a pound. This rose to $23.00 a pound just prior to Yom Kippur and then this week rose to $28.50 a pound! After removing its skin and bones, the cost of Sable now costs $40.00 a pound! Obviously we do not expect to sell much this year.
Areas that I expect to see the most inflation are in our delicacy items such as King Crab, Jumbo Lump Crab, Lobster, Shrimp and Prime Beef. Depending on world harvests, we could also see huge jumps in wheat, corn and soybeans which would cause incredible food cost increases as these items are the core of all food production.
While I hope I am wrong about this inflation, I doubt that this will be the case.
Food costs go crazy!
Dining out continues to become a great value as the cost of food continues to skyrocket.
While we have had to raise pricing, our raises are far less than what the consumer is seeing at retail. The last five months have seen the highest inflation of food costs in decades!
The causes of the food inflation are several factors which have created the perfect inflation Tsunami if you will. First was a major freeze in the Western USA and Mexico that drove produce prices as much as 400% on lettuce and other produce harvested in the first quarter of the year. This killed restaurants as prices could not be raised to adjust to this.
The next part of the Tsunami was our weak dollar. This causes two major issues. First, it makes our American products more affordable for other countries. This has caused the price of beef, fish and seafood to soar as they can buy more for less. Secondly, the dollar has helped cause oil to go to record costs against the dollar.
Gasoline costs over $4.00 drive food costs up to ridiculous levels as nearly all of our food is trucked in.Last year a truck cost from California to Detroit was $1700 less than this year which effectively puts a tariff on every case procured. Even our local suppliers are adding a gas charge on every delivery. Seafood boats are gas affected as well causing our fish prices to go up over 20% in most areas.
Unless we lower our deficit spending and if things in the Middle East do not settle down, there is seemingly no end to this food inflation.Our best bet is to buy local but that only works for five months a year. The end result is that no restaurant from McDonalds to the best of fine dining is spared. Price raises are here to stay just as we come out of recession. Hopefully this inflation does not put us back into recession but it very well might! Even the cheapest of food items have soared! A case of Idaho potatoes was $15 last year but today they are over $30. Carrots last year were $8 for a 25lb bag and they are now $22.
Hanukkah Towers Recipes with a Twist
The potato latke is a symbolic dish of Hanukkah. For these that want to be a bit different, here are a brunch inspired potato latke and a lunch or dinner vegetarian latke, both of which are built into towers.
Zucchini Latke Tower with Mushroom Compote
(Serves 4)
Compote
¼ c Olive Oil
1 Large Spanish Onion (diced)
½ # Crimini Mushrooms (sliced)
¼ # Shiitake Mushroom Caps (sliced)
¼ # Dried Porcini Mushrooms
2 c Heavy Cream
Salt & White Pepper (to taste)
Latke
1 Large Spanish Onion (grated)
4 Zucchini (grated)
1 t Kosher Salt
3 Eggs (beaten)
All Purpose Flour (to Bind)
Salt & White Pepper (to taste)
1 c Vegetable Oil
Method
Begin the compote by heating the oil and adding the onions. Sauté until the onions are translucent and then add all of the mushrooms. The liquid from the criminis will rehydrate the porcinis. Cook the mushrooms until all moisture has evaporated and then add the cream. Reduce the cream until it is very thick and then season to taste. Reserve warm.While compote is cooking, grate the onion and zucchini finely. Toss them with a teaspoon of kosher salt and let them sit for 5 minutes. After,press the zucchini and onion in a strainer to remove all the liquid and place them in a mixing bowl. Fold in the beaten eggs and bind with as little flour as possible. Season and prepare a small latke to taste and adjust seasoning. Heat the oil and prepare 12 zucchini latkes. Sauté them on each side until caramelized and cooked through. Place a latke on each of four plates,topping each one with some compote. Then repeat the process and top with the third latke and more compote. Garnish with minced chives.
Potato Latke Tower with Nova Lox & Proper Accompaniments
(Serves 4)
The Latkes
1 Large Spanish Onion (grated)
4 Idaho Potatoes (peeled & grated)
1 t kosher salt
2 Eggs (well beaten)
1 T Sugar
All Purpose Flour (as needed)
Salt & White Pepper (to taste)
1 c Vegetable Oil
The Towers
8 oz Nova Lox (sliced thin)
2 ea Hard Boiled Eggs (grated)
½ Red Onion (grated)
1 T Minced Chive
1 c Sour Cream
2 T Pesto (optional)
Method
Mix the grated onion and potato with kosher salt and allow to sit for five minutes. Place in a strainer and remove all moisture. Put into a bowl and add sugar and eggs to mix. Season to taste and add just enough flour to bind. Heat oil in a sauté pan and prepare 12 latkes, making sure they are well caramelized on each side and very crispy. Place a latke on each of four plates. Top with sourcream or, if you’d like a twist, mix the pesto in with the sour cream and place a teaspoon of the pesto cream on each latke. Then, top the cream with 1 oz. of lox and garnish with egg and onion. Repeat this process on top of the latkes and then put the third latke on top and garnish it with cream, egg, onion and chive. Serve while latkes are warm. NOTE: These latkes are also great served with ahomemade apple sauce.
OMG, so many wines! A.K.A. How to navigate a walk-around wine tasting.
When faced with a room full of bottles, arrayed for a benefit or retailer’s holiday show, the prospect of tasting can feel more daunting then pleasurable. How to know what the best wines are? How to choose? How to keep tasting without getting, well, drunk?
Casing the Joint – Take a stroll around the room’s perimeter and eyeball the wine tables. Some events will have table tents that let you know the wine theme per grouping. Other tastings will provide a handy program booklet – you can scan the pages looking for labels of interest. Don’t try to taste everything. Select a personal theme. If time and tolerance permit, return to taste wines you may have missed. Your theme could include wines you’ve read about in the Spectator, all Italian wines if you’re planning a trip, or recommendations from the pourers at each table.
How much is too much? Be realistic about your capacity. Pourers at big events are usually directed to pour a couple of ounces, a controlled portion. The idea is to taste as many different wines as possible, responsibly. That’s why it’s advisable to either spit (into containers provided for this sociably acceptable action) or drink tiny amounts. To assess a wine, the nose is the knower; you don’t require much more than an ounce to coat the sides of the glass for an effective sniff.
Cleansing the palate – It is conventional wisdom that one must purge taste buds with water or bread between sips. Balderdash! Professional tasters are hyper-aware of the length of the aftertaste. They wait patiently until the flavor subsides and then move on to the next sample. If you feel your blood sugar plummet, pull over to the food tables and munch a little protein.
It all tastes the same… After a while, especially when tasting dense, furry reds, they’ll begin to melt into one another. Just stop. Drink a big glass of water, eat a little something, take a walk outside. If you choose to resume, consider heading to the champagne-style wines or to whites. The flavors will “pop” in relief to the reds. Or, go home, driving safely all the way.
To buy or not to buy? It’s not a bad idea to sleep on it. If a retailer is running a December special with irresistible discounts, the deals will stay warm for a period of time, just ask. In the light of day, you may opt for wines that you’ll realistically drink, share or give away.
Remember – always drink responsibly. A designated driver or a car service is always a good idea to ensure a good & safe time is had by all.
Cheers!
Two Amazing Wine Events on One Spectacular Evening
We are really very excited about hosting Rare! and Vin Voyage this year at the Renaissance Center.
When: Friday, August 27, 2010
Time: 7:00 p.m.
Where: Coach Insignia – GM Wintergarden
Detroit, Michigan
Two incredible events – one spectacular evening to raise funds to support the Multidisciplinary Spine Program and spine research at Henry Ford West Bloomfield Hospital.
Collaborating as Wine and Food Chairs are our very own Master Sommelier Madeline Triffon and Matt Prentice. They each are bringing their expansive expertise in wine and food to both events to make one unforgettable evening.
RARE!
Serious fine wine enthusiasts can experience an unprecedented collection of truly rare wines paired with an exceptional strolling dinner provided by the creative culinary team led by Matt Prentice at the luxurious Coach Insignia. Tickets for RARE! are $500 or $1,000 per person. The $1,000 ticket includes an overnight stay at the Detroit Marriott at the Renaissance Center and special recognition in event program book.
Vin Voyage
Wine lovers will enjoy this fun-filled event celebrating wine and food cultures both locally and from around the world. Held in the GM Wintergarden in the Renaissance Center, Vin Voyage will feature a strolling wine tasting and dinner with delicious food and wine parings provided by the Matt Prentice Restaurant Group. Tickets for Vin Voyage are $150 per person or $250 per couple.
Proceeds from RARE! and Vin Voyage support the Henry Ford Multidisciplinary Spine Program, which offers patients the combined expertise of neurosurgery and orthopaedic spine surgery to treat all disorders of the spine and spinal cord, and traumatic injury to the spine and brain. To ensure each patient the best chance for a successful outcome, Henry Ford’s multidisciplinary team performs state-of-the-art diagnostic studies and medical, interventional, and surgical services, with an emphasis on minimally invasive surgery and complex spine reconstruction techniques.
Attendees for both events must be 21 or older. For more information about this event, contact Louise Rallis at (313) 874-6138.
What? No Beer For BBQ? by Madeline Triffon
Well, sure, but it’s been done. Juicy ripe red wine works every bit as well. Let’s consider the flavors and textures of BBQ: sweet, hot sauce slathered over fatty meat. You’ve probably got baking spices, honey, Tabasco and Dad’s secret ingredients in the marinade/rub. If a wine’s going to have a chance to dance with this lip-smacking, messy-fun food, it needs a touch of sweetness, or at least an illusion of the same. Quintessential Aussie Shiraz is a glorious bet, with oodles of “sweet” coconuty-vanillin oak. The tannins, an essential refreshment factor, are well-padded with super-ripe fruit. Mouth-filling, jammy fruit will slide around the spicy meat with cheerful collaboration.
Other gleeful genres of wine to consider include robust California Zinfandel, chunky Côtes-du-Rhône, and warm Spanish Garnacha. Craving something cool? Yank any of the following out of an ice bath: German Riesling Spätlese (“Late Harvest”), a rich rosé from southern Italy or French Rosé Champagne, refreshing, elegant and a party-in-a-bottle. Why not pair that special bottle you’ve been saving with all-American comfort food? Think of a stunning movie star on the slum, wearing rare South Sea Islands pearls and garden-stained jeans. Why not!
Mysterious Grape, Singular Wine … by Madeline Triffon
Pinotage (pea-no-tahj) is a red variety uniquely South African, and whose origin provides us with a delicious story. A cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault (sin-sow), it was brought into the world by Abraham Izak Perold, a professor of viticulture at the University of Stellenbosch. In 1925, working in the garden of his residence, Perold brushed a male Cinsault flower against a pollen donor Pinot Noir, and Pinotage (“Pinot” + “Hermitage”) was born. Cinsault had been mysteriously knows as “Hermitage”; it bears zero relation to the Rhône’s Syrah-based Hermitage. It’s said that “Herminoir” was also a name option!
Why would Perold cross 2 grapes with so very little in common? Burgundy’s Pinot Noir is capable of producing gloriously fragrant, translucent, tender reds, and is very tricky to grow. Cinsault is a fertile grape, withstanding the heat of southern France and South Africa and widely used in blends. One could imagine the professor’s vision of melding the finer potential of both grapes, but he left no records of his thinking on the subject. His experiment was almost lost to the oeno-ages: story has it that the garden’s vines were being cleared out when a young instructor happened by on bike and salvaged four seedlings.
Examples of Pinotage available to us in the U.S. don’t lend themselves easily to stylistic generalization. The wines are uniformly darker and more tannic than Pinot Noir, though not as dense and drying as Cabernet. They can be simple or complex, expensive or not. The aromatics do usually include an unusual scent that defies description: smoky, in the way that Scotch whiskey is smoky, earthy-tarry, medicinal, like iodine. If there’s just a titch of this aroma, it adds complexity and “South-African-ness”. If dominant, it can be off-putting. Truth be told, other South African reds incubate that smell as well, so it’s not really accurate to call it a Pinotage signature. Whether it’s grape-based, terroir-driven or wood-derived, the answer will vary depending on which South African wine expert one asks.
The first Pinotage wine was actually made in 1941. Early plantings expanded as farmers took advantage of the grape’s ease of growth, early-ripening and love for a sunny clime. Much of it was used in value blends or distilled. The grape was dealt a blow in the mid-seventies when its wines received poor critical press. It wasn’t until about 10 years later that impressive tastings of older bottles reversed the negative reputation. In 1991, at the International Wine and Spirit Competition, the winemaker at the respected Kanonkop winery was named “International Winemaker of the Year” for making, you got it, Pinotage.
Older plantings of Pinotage are well-respected, yielding concentrated, age-worthy bottlings. The grape handles dry (un-irrigated) farming well, yielding darker jammy berry fruit in warmer growing regions. Pinotage seems to travel well, performing well in cooler growing regions too and enjoying hillside vineyards. Less pricey examples can be fruity and easy, reminiscent perhaps of modest Zinfandel. This much seems evident, that Pinotage expresses itself in a broad variety of styles and price points. It even has its own club, the Pinotage Association, established in 1995 dedicated to fanning the resurgence of interest in the grape in the minds of both winemakers and consumers.
If you’re a wine aficionado, smacking your lips at the thought of a unique “something” that resists easy definition, how can you avoid the adventure of buying Pinotage? Spend a little money. Cellar some bottles for a time. Look to be entertained and surprised. And try and come up with your own tidy description!
Cheers!
Organic Food and The Benefits
Three years ago we revolutionized hospital food and brought it beyond the boundaries of anyone’s imagination. This changed my entire perspective as a chef.
Recently on the radio, I heard a staggering statistic. The newscaster stated that stomach cancer amongst young people was up 70%. The reason was, unfortunately, diet. It’s not hard to understand why diet has taken such a hit in the last few decades. After World War II, we changed our growing methods in the United States. We stopped growing in the method we now call organic and began using fertilizer. This caused problems with bugs and we combated that problem with pesticides. The “fallout” from this has been huge.
When I was a child, one never heard of nut allergies or dairy allergies. Today they are rampant along with many other food allergies. We, as an American society, are largely obese. Diabetes is a national tragedy. Health care costs have exploded and are crippling our economy.
When we formed the Matt Prentice Wellness Program, I began by reading 50 books and taking copious notes. I changed my diet to reflect what our chefs, breadsmiths and pastry chefs were doing. In other words, I talked the talk and walked the walk. The result was a loss of 40+ pounds without trying, as well as a dramatic lowering of my blood pressure and cholesterol. I was amazed but even better, I enjoyed my new lifestyle!
We, as a society, must insist that our growers go back to what we now call organic growing methods. Our restaurants and other foodservice providers must use proper cooking techniques to mitigate the ills our society is suffering due to the cooking methods of the past.
Americans, as a whole, must get away from the detrimental fast and processed foods.
As the Wellness program grows, we will continue to educate our team and guests, and ensure that we continue to provide healthy-healing food. As I have learned over the last three years, food is medicine.
The Intrigue of Bottle Age
Ever wonder why your collector friends like to brag about those old bottles in their cellars? And why they’re so pricey at your favorite restaurants? Once you’ve developed a taste for their unique character, a perfectly aged bottle can be a rare and delectable experience.
Most of the wine produced in the world is meant to be consumed immediately after bottling, or very sooner thereafter. It’s only certain kinds of wines that actually have the capacity to improve with age. Historically, it wasn’t until the 17th century when European winemakers started using corks and glass bottles that both the added sensory and monetary value of cellaring wines became apparent, and desirable.
Once a wine is bottled, it continues to evolve, albeit slowly, in an oxygen-free state, experiencing youth, middle age and senility. Conversely, when a spirit (vodka, cognac) is bottled, it remains virtually in suspended animation, neither improving nor degenerating.
How can you tell a wine is mature? “Aroma” refers to the smell of a young wine. “Bouquet” refers to the complex smell of a mature or “vinous” wine. “Fruity” is a wine in the flush of youth, with up-front tree fruit aromas (for white wine) and berries (for red wine). In young wines, oak character (vanilla, warm baking spices) is aggressive and the tannin astringent and drying. As wine ages, the tannins soften, the oak integrates and non-fruity elements emerge, such as earthy-stony and leathery scents. The overall impression moves from simplicity to complexity. Wines that have the ability, even necessity, of ageing will balance themselves in the bottle, all their elements coming together in harmony.
Examples of what happens
Riesling is highly aromatic varietal that ages magnificently. When first bottled, it offers distinct green apple and peach-apricot fruit as well as beautiful floral aromas. Its unique secondary smell of petroleum/diesel is subtle. As it matures, the overt fruitiness drops off and the earth-mineral smells become more pronounced. The sweeter styles seem to veer towards dryness and the acidity stays firm.
The effect of bottle age is perhaps nowhere as obvious as with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux blends. As their tannin and coloring matter drop off in the form of sediment, their dark hue lightens from red-violet to ruby with garnet tones. Their primal cassis/blackberry aromas bloom into a range of forest floor and cedary scents. The mouth-drying is softened, sometimes dramatically.
Is older better?
The answer to this is an utterly personal call. There’s no dishonor in enjoying young snappy wines laden with delicious fruit. If you determine a personal preference for mature wines, be prepared to pay top dollar, as a vendor will be looking at the escalated replacement cost. Or, you can buy wines when they are first-released and cellar them yourself. Self-discipline and communication (“Hands Off!” signage) are required with home wine storage.
How old is old enough? Wines age at different rates, depending on their levels of tannin, acidity and sugar, all agents of longevity. A good indication is a wine’s color. White wines darken with age, changing from pale straw with green glints to rich gold. A common mistake is in holding white wines too long. With rare exception, such as sweet dessert-style and fortified wines, their growth curve is more rapid than for reds. The color of red wine lightens with age, moving from opaque purple-red to translucent ruby-garnet. But if the color is dull or browning, the palate may follow suit, offer little more than sharp acidity and sherry-like flavor. There’s a practiced knack to catching wines before they slide off their optimum plateau: open them! Better to kick oneself for opening a cherished bottle too soon, than to wait for the special occasion that never comes.
How can we age wine properly?
For our practical purposes, the term “cellar” is figurative, indicating cool, dark storage conditions that help stem the effect of passing time. Oxygen is the biggest culprit of premature ageing, followed by heat and direct light. The more slowly a wine matures in a cold cellar (or closet), the greater its eventual complexity. Smaller bottles mature more quickly than larger bottles, explaining the fascination that collector’s have with larger format bottles such as magnums.
Cheers!
Local & Better
At No.VI Chophouse, we serve the finest steaks obtainable in the marketplace. Our value is also at the top of the spectrum. There are many premiere steakhouses that have National prominence. They are names we all are familiar with. Our CEO, Matt Prentice, wanted No.VI Chophouse to exceed them and it does.
These National premiere steakhouses are great restaurants. In most cases, they strive for the best quality. At the same time, they are chains which try to achieve the KISS system (Keep It Simple Stupid). They have their corporate recipes, their corporate wine program, their corporate design package and they are all very good. While the National concepts are great, Matt wanted us to be better and, in my opinion, we are. Both the Nationals and No.VI start with great product; we serve the best that money can buy. What differentiates us is culinary ingenuity and local focus. Matt is a Detroit institution; he has catered to Detroit’s families for 30 years and probably will continue to do so for another 30 years. Secondly, he challenges his chefs to be cutting edge and creative. Lastly, he has us focus on local products. For example, you’ll never see a Michigan Morel Bisque in any of the Nationals. In other words, we take chances where the Nationals do not. I am proud to serve Michigan Asparagus, Wild Michigan Ramps and Morels, Organic Michigan Strawberries in season and Michigan Organic Vegetables as they come available. It is hugely important to Matt and all of his chefs that we keep it local whenever we can.
Don’t forget! Print this blog post and bring it with you to No.VI Chophouse and we will deduct 25% off the food portion of your bill!
Bon Appétit,
Chef Jason Hayden
