The Intrigue of Bottle Age
Ever wonder why your collector friends like to brag about those old bottles in their cellars? And why they’re so pricey at your favorite restaurants? Once you’ve developed a taste for their unique character, a perfectly aged bottle can be a rare and delectable experience.
Most of the wine produced in the world is meant to be consumed immediately after bottling, or very sooner thereafter. It’s only certain kinds of wines that actually have the capacity to improve with age. Historically, it wasn’t until the 17th century when European winemakers started using corks and glass bottles that both the added sensory and monetary value of cellaring wines became apparent, and desirable.
Once a wine is bottled, it continues to evolve, albeit slowly, in an oxygen-free state, experiencing youth, middle age and senility. Conversely, when a spirit (vodka, cognac) is bottled, it remains virtually in suspended animation, neither improving nor degenerating.
How can you tell a wine is mature? “Aroma” refers to the smell of a young wine. “Bouquet” refers to the complex smell of a mature or “vinous” wine. “Fruity” is a wine in the flush of youth, with up-front tree fruit aromas (for white wine) and berries (for red wine). In young wines, oak character (vanilla, warm baking spices) is aggressive and the tannin astringent and drying. As wine ages, the tannins soften, the oak integrates and non-fruity elements emerge, such as earthy-stony and leathery scents. The overall impression moves from simplicity to complexity. Wines that have the ability, even necessity, of ageing will balance themselves in the bottle, all their elements coming together in harmony.
Examples of what happens
Riesling is highly aromatic varietal that ages magnificently. When first bottled, it offers distinct green apple and peach-apricot fruit as well as beautiful floral aromas. Its unique secondary smell of petroleum/diesel is subtle. As it matures, the overt fruitiness drops off and the earth-mineral smells become more pronounced. The sweeter styles seem to veer towards dryness and the acidity stays firm.
The effect of bottle age is perhaps nowhere as obvious as with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Bordeaux blends. As their tannin and coloring matter drop off in the form of sediment, their dark hue lightens from red-violet to ruby with garnet tones. Their primal cassis/blackberry aromas bloom into a range of forest floor and cedary scents. The mouth-drying is softened, sometimes dramatically.
Is older better?
The answer to this is an utterly personal call. There’s no dishonor in enjoying young snappy wines laden with delicious fruit. If you determine a personal preference for mature wines, be prepared to pay top dollar, as a vendor will be looking at the escalated replacement cost. Or, you can buy wines when they are first-released and cellar them yourself. Self-discipline and communication (“Hands Off!” signage) are required with home wine storage.
How old is old enough? Wines age at different rates, depending on their levels of tannin, acidity and sugar, all agents of longevity. A good indication is a wine’s color. White wines darken with age, changing from pale straw with green glints to rich gold. A common mistake is in holding white wines too long. With rare exception, such as sweet dessert-style and fortified wines, their growth curve is more rapid than for reds. The color of red wine lightens with age, moving from opaque purple-red to translucent ruby-garnet. But if the color is dull or browning, the palate may follow suit, offer little more than sharp acidity and sherry-like flavor. There’s a practiced knack to catching wines before they slide off their optimum plateau: open them! Better to kick oneself for opening a cherished bottle too soon, than to wait for the special occasion that never comes.
How can we age wine properly?
For our practical purposes, the term “cellar” is figurative, indicating cool, dark storage conditions that help stem the effect of passing time. Oxygen is the biggest culprit of premature ageing, followed by heat and direct light. The more slowly a wine matures in a cold cellar (or closet), the greater its eventual complexity. Smaller bottles mature more quickly than larger bottles, explaining the fascination that collector’s have with larger format bottles such as magnums.
Cheers!
